Development of a multifunctional facial dermocosmetic containing cowpea pods ((Vigna unguiculata)

cosmetic containing cowpea pod ((Vigna unguiculata)

Abstract

The aim of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant, photoprotective and whitening activity of the aqueous extract of the straw of the string bean pod (SSBP), followed by the development of a dermo-cosmetic and evaluation of its preliminary stability. To evaluate the antioxidant effect of SSBP, the DPPH and lipid peroxidation (TBARS) methods were used; spectrophotometry was used to describe the in vitro UVB/UVA photoprotective potential; and the whitening activity was determined using the tyrosinase inhibition test. The formulations were developed and characterized by macroscopic analysis, centrifugation, pH, viscosity, density, spreadability and hydration capacity, with preliminary stability assessment (25 ± 2°C, 5°C ± 2°C and 40°C ± 2°C) using the same parameters. SSBP showed the presence of phenols and flavonoids, with good antioxidant activity (IC50 = 117.78 µg/mL - DPPH test) and an excellent SPF value (14.79), although a slight whitening effect was observed. The formulations showed a light brown color in all the conditions tested, as well as a characteristic odor and a semi-solid state. The pH, viscosity and spreadability values remained stable throughout the test period, except for the formulations stored in the refrigerator. SSBP proved to be a promising photoprotective cosmetic active ingredient with good antioxidant activity suitable for incorporation into multifunctional formulations.